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textile science

13. IDENTIFICATION OF FABRICS

1.      Burning test

A simple burn test is done to identify unknown fabrics. The burn test for the identification of fabric should be done only by skilled burners. It is usually done by many fabric stores and designers to determine the exact fiber content. Some fabrics ignite and some melt. Burn test fail to distinguish between cotton and other cellulose fibers. Some fabric also have finishes that effect burn results.

Precaution:

i.                    The burning test method for recognizing fabric must be conducted cautiously. Use a small piece of fabric and hold it with tweezers.

ii.                  Wear non-inflammable clothes when using the test.

iii.                When using flammable materials do so with utmost caution.

iv.                 Keep damp woolen cloth nearby to put out a fire.

v.                  Keep hair out of flame and do not allow the burning material to touch skin.

The result of fabric burning test may prove ambiguous sometimes when different fibers are twisted together. Different finishes used on the fabric also may result in varying results

2.      Chemical solubility tests

These are tests that help to determine the fiber content of a fabric. Here solvents are used to identify one fiber from another. Reactions of fibers to common acid and alkaline solutions are used in these tests. Acetate fabric will dissolve in acetone nail polish remover.

3.      Identification of Fabric by Feel

Fabrics can be identified based on the texture, which means the surface feel of a fabric. Example the feel of gauze bandage, cotton sari and a denim pant material. All these have different feel when touched. Thus, the texture is observed and based on that the fabrics can be identified for its suitability to a chosen end application area, like whether the fabric can be used for pant, shirt or frock.

Different types of fabrics and their feel

NAME OF THE FABRIC

FEEL

Chiffon (Synthetic)

Soft

Georgette

Silky

Denim

Rough

Leather

Rough and grainy

Gauze cotton bandage

Light and netted

Door mat

Pricky

Terry towel

Bumpy

Silk

Soft


4. Identification of Fabric by Look/visual

Fabrics can be assessed by the appearance. This is generally based on how it takes up light and reflects or absorbs it. There are different types of fabric dull, bright, shiny, glossy, transparent, embellished, thick, heavy, light, fine, semi-transparent, embroidery, lace, knotted to mention a few.

Different types of fabrics and their appearance

FABRIC

LOOK

Denim

Dull

Silk

Shiny

Wool

Hairy

Satin

Shiny

Linen

Coarse

Embroidered fabric

Rough

Velvet

Very smooth

Sweater

Ribbed

Pile

Fibrous

Woolen

Soft

 

 

4.      Identification of fabric by labelling

You can identify a fabric by checking its label, a label indicates the fiber content. The label should be durable, easily legible, visible and accessible. A textile product consisting of two or more fibers accounting for 85% of the finished product should be marked with the fiber followed by a percentage - for example, 'cotton 80%, polyester 15%, nylon 5%'.

FABRIC CHARACTERISTICS FOR APPAREL MANUFACTURING

Physical properties are generally the static physical dimensions of a fabric. The physical properties used for describing a fabric are given next.

1.      Fiber or filament – type, size and length

2.      Yarn – linear density, diameter, twist and number of ply

3.      Weight – grams per metre or yards per pound

4.      Thickness

5.      Fabric structure – for woven fabrics: type of weave, count of warp and weft, ends per inch (EPI), picks per inch (PPI). For knitted fabrics: type of knit, wales per inch (WPI), course per inch (CPI) and loop length

6.      Non-fibrous matter – residual chemicals left over the fabric

7.      Finishes – chemical and mechanical finishes applied to woven fabric to improve the durability and utility values

8.      Fabric width – the length of the filling or course

9.      Color, hue, value and intensity

10.  Fabric density – weight per unit volume

11.  Surface contour – the geometric dimension of the surface plane

Six major categories of fabric characteristics that are of significance for the apparel manufacturer

·         Style characteristics

·         Hand characteristics

·         Visual characteristics

·         Utility characteristics

·         Durability characteristics

·         Product production working characteristics

 

a.      Style characteristics

Style characteristics generally change, which has an effect on the emotional appeal the fabric imparts to the customer. This is validated when a customer handles a fabric and rates the fabric with adjectives like stiff, soft, hard etc.

b.      Hand characteristics

The characteristics that influence the fabric hand are;

-          Thickness compressibility – the degree in which fabric can be compressed with a given pressure

-          Elongation – extent to which the fabric can be stretched without breaking

-          Elasticity – the extent to which the fabric can be extended and still have capacity to come back to its original length after stretching force is removed.

-          Malleability – the degree with which a fabric can be moulded into a surface by moving more than one straight line element through space

-          Flexibility

-          Resilience

c.       Visual characteristics

This are the changes in color values when either the fabric or light is moved.

d.      Utility characteristics

Refers to the comfort, fit and wearing characteristics of a garment while the fabric experiences mechanical, thermal or chemical conditions during the usage of the garment. The transmission and transformation are the two main types in this category.

 

Ø  Transmission characteristics – transmits mass or energy through the fabric. It alters physical properties of the fabric without obliterating the fabric.

·         Weight

·         Thickness

·         Elongation

·         Moisture transmission

·         Radioactive transmission

·         Water permeability

Ø  Transformation characteristics

·         Color fastness

·         Crease resistance

·         Crease retention

·         Crack resistance

·         Dimensional stability

·         Felting

·         Fusing

·         Mildew resistance

·         Moisture absorption

·         Moisture retention (drying)

·         Pilling

·         Soiling 

·         Shrinkage

·         Static electricity

·         Yarn slippage

 

e.       Durability characteristics

Ability of a fabric to retain the utility and style characteristics during wear. It is an indirect measure of stress, which destroys the fabric or its capability to retain the required styled or utility characteristics. The durability characteristics are

·         Abrasive strength

·         Bursting strength

·         Corrosive strength

·         Dry cleaning durability

·         Fire resistance

·         Launder ability

·         Moth resistance

·         Tearing strength

·         Tensile strength

·         Yarn severance

FACTORS DETERMINING FABRIC USE

i.                    Suitability

Some fabrics and colors are suitable for winter while others are not, for example synthetics; silk and wool are suitable for winter as they are bad conductor of heat. Cotton and blends of cotton with synthetics are good for summer as they are good conductor of heat and absorptive. There are cool and warm colors. The cool colors are associated with coolness, for example, blue, green, white etc. Warm colors are bad conductors of heat and associated with warmth for example, red, golden yellow and orange. So warm colors are suitable for winter, whereas cool colors are chosen for summer.

ii.                  Care

Special fabrics are used for industrial purposes, for interiors in institutions for heat and sound insulation and for bandages, masks etc. in hospitals. Since fabrics with specific properties are selected for specific usage and functionality, it becomes important that these characteristics are retained for the expected life of the material. This is attainable only with proper care.

iii.                 Durability

Choosing quality fabrics that will last and safeguarding them with soil and stain protection are the final steps in making a professional selection.

While no one can determine how long a certain fabric will last, making selections with these criteria in mind should certainly help you and your client conclude that you have done your best to choose the best!

iv.                Fabric Drape

The drape determines how the fabric flows. In other words, stiff fabrics have less drape, and fluid fabrics have more drape.

A fabric with more drape will make the skirt float away from your body, contrary to a fabric with a soft drape which will make it fold close to your body. For example, if you want a flowing skirt, you should pick a thin and well-draping fabric, but if you want a more structured skirt, choose a stiff and thick fabric. 

 

 

v.                  Fabric Stretch

Fabrics have different elasticity (ability of textile fibers to “bounce back” when they are stretched). When you are choosing a fabric with stretch, you have to be sure that it works for your pattern, because it can change how the final product fits the body.

vi.                Color

The grade of color fastness directly manifests the inner quality of clothing. Color is an influential element of fashion and aesthetics of clothing, it has great value for both the user and the brand. Color is one of the most significant features in attracting customers and inclines to buy a product/garment. Retaining the original color is one of the important quality parameter of colored textiles. Color fastness is rated poor if it does not comply with the tests by exposing to laundry, light, rubbing and other agencies such as perspiration. Color fastness also directly form a linkage to the health and safety of wearer. Dye molecules and heavy metal ions in textiles with low color fastness may be absorbed through the skin and cause skin damage, or even pose a threat to the health of the wearer intangibly. Therefore, choosing textiles with high color fastness is a guarantee for health to some extent.

vii.              Texture

Soft and smooth cloth are comfortable. Therefore suitable for apparel manufacture e.g. nightwear, baby cloths and home furnishing e.g. pillow cases, seat covers

 

Stripes and other patterns present a variety of potential design challenges, such as whether the pattern runs the width of the roll (railroaded) or the length of it (non-railroaded). Certain solid fabrics, such as velvet, can also have textural qualities that need to be taken into consideration when cutting and sewing the fabric panels.

 

viii.            Finishes

Various garment finishes can affect the selection of fabrics for use. In order to impart the required functional properties to the fiber or fabric, it is customary to subject the material to different types of physical and chemical treatments. For example, wash and wear finish for a cotton fabric is necessary to make it crease-free or wrinkle-free.

In a similar way, mercerizing, singeing, flame retardant, water repellent, waterproof, anti-static and peach finishing achieve various fabric properties desired by consumers. You can therefore chose various fabrics depending on their finishes i.e. they can be shiny, rough, smooth and soft.